We packed up the family and drove west to North Dakota for the week before the Fourth of July. We weren’t crazy enough to attempt the drive out to Medora in one shot, so we broke the journey up into legs that would fit in the two two-hour nap windows we had each day. Thus, we spent nights in each city as such: Jamestown, Dickinson, Medora, Bismarck and Brainerd (more on why Brainerd later).
We went to Yunker Farm (Fargo), Red River Zoo (Fargo), Frontier Village (Jamestown), Stutsman County Museum (Jamestown), Fort Seward (Jamestown), Dakota Zoo (Bismarck), Heritage Museum (Bismarck), Governor’s Mansion (Bismarck), Dinosaur Museum (Dickinson), Museum Center (Dickinson), Theodore Roosevelt National Park (Medora), Chateau de Mores (Medora), Pitchfork Fondue (Medora), The Doll House (Medora) and the city of Medora itself. We drove the “Enchanted Highway” and saw the large metal sculptures.
Grace loved Yunker Farm. Located near the Air Force base, it’s an old farmhouse that has been converted into a children’s museum of sorts. They have a lot of indoor learning activities for kids, including painting, a real honey bee hive, agriculture displays, a model cow for milking, a theater, music room, gravity demonstrations and a lot of other stuff. Outside, they have a scaled-down train for rides, a carousel and a playground. About the only entertaining thing for us adults (other than watching the kids have fun) was the train ride. But Grace played so much that she put up no fight when it was time to get in the car for the afternoon nap-drive to Jamestown.
The drive to Jamestown was a bit rough, weather-wise. Storms were moving through the region and we were driving against a stiff west wind; I could literally watch the gas gauge drop. We also drove through some pretty heavy downpours. One thing about North Dakota; you can see the storms coming toward you from miles away.
We visited the Frontier Village in Jamestown in two installments; one on the way out to Medora and one on the way back. The Frontier Village is a hodge podge of historic and recreated historic buildings. They also have miscellaneous old artifacts, a stage coach ride, pony rides, a theater and a park. It is probably best known for it’s massive cement buffalo. On the first visit, we mainly just wanted to walk the “town” and see the buffalo (real and cement). Grace was so caught up in watching the scenery on the path to the buffalo that she wasn’t watching where she was going and belly-flopped onto a flower pot. She suffered no damage other than a little embarrassment. The storms were still marching through the area, so it was quite windy, even by North Dakota standards. When taking pictures at the buffalo, Grace was blown to the ground by a big gust of wind. She scraped up her hands a bit and shed some tears. And then to prove that bad things come in threes, she was blasted by rocks (yes, rocks) in the wind on the way back to the car. We all got hit, and it stung. Poor Grace was traumatized by the ordeal. For the remainder of the trip she needed us to reassure her that there were no rocks in the wind. Needless to say, we didn’t stay at the village for too long. Unfortunately, our hotel offered little by way of relaxation. The pool was partly closed due to construction, and was crowded with teenagers who splashed too much for Grace’s liking. The room itself smelled of sewer gas; we needed to stopper the drains and fill the bath and sink with water. We were to stay at the hotel again on our return trip, but we canceled and booked the much nicer and newer Holiday Inn Express down the street. Also, Ethan decided to up the ante, offering two new teeth for the pot. He was crabby for the remainder of the trip, but a little Motrin helped us all get through it. On the second visit, we toured the Frontier Village more thoroughly, and without the high winds. We took the stagecoach ride, which Grace was looking forward to and loved every bumpy minute of. Ethan was less impressed and needed us to convince him that the kidney-crunching bumps were fun. We also let Grace go on a pony ride. We also visited the Fort Seward site and the Stutsman County Museum. Fort Seward has no actual fort, but an interpretive center, veterans memorial and a large US flag. A local farm dog, Homer, was our tour guide. The museum is housed in an old mansion and contains a pretty impressive collection of artifacts. Without kids, Jess and I could have spent a lot of time in there.
We also split our sightseeing in Bismarck into two parts; with the Dakota Zoo on the first visit and the Governor’s mansion and Heritage Center on the second. The Dakota Zoo is a pretty nice zoo, or at least much better than what we were expecting for North Dakota. They have a very nice wooded walking trail with an impressive variety of animals. Grace loved it, and even Ethan could appreciate the accessibility of the animals; his finger was flying all over as he pointed to things of interest. On the second visit we toured the Heritage Center, which houses a very nice museum full of artifacts relevant to North Dakota. This was another place that Jess and I could have spent a long time exploring.
We enjoyed Medora much more than we thought we would. It was our target destination on this trip, so we stayed three nights there. Medora is what an old western-town-turned-tourist-trap should look like. It has panoramic views of the badlands, old and new frontier-style buildings, train tracks with frequent trains and a Valley Fair kind of entertainment feel. We stayed at the Badlands Motel right in town. It’s a no-frills place with an outdoor pool and a mini-golf course. Jess was pretty sure that the place hadn’t changed much since she was last there some 20 years ago. Breakfast was not included, so we ate at the Cowboy Cafe, one of the few places in town not operated by the Theodore Roosevelt Medora Foundation. They had fresh caramel rolls every morning, which we bought for the kids, while Jess and I had Texas toast “French” toast and meat. The place was packed every morning, and with all of the clamor of a typical cafe, the kids’ noises simply blended in. Toss in a cup of hot coffee and it was the perfect place to start the day. Medora could easily be seen in a full day with the Medora Musical in the evening. But with two little kids and naps to work around, we needed the full two-and-a-half days. We toured the Chateau de Mores, the summer home of the marquis who started the town. We walked the town and looked in on any of the historic buildings open to us, and of course the little shops. We ate at the Roughrider Saloon one night, which has been remodeled into a fine dining establishment: I had duck and Jess had lobster ravioli while Grace’s mac ‘n cheese came with an orchid for decoration. It was a good meal, but quick as always with the kids. We were in no rush though, as it was storming outside. We also ate at the Pitchfork Fondue. It’s part of the Medora Musical property and serves as a pre-show dinner (we didn’t go to the musical, however). It’s a large covered space where steaks skewered on pitchforks are cooked in a few large barrels of oil. There’s a buffet full of sides to complement the steak. There must have been 300 people there when we ate, but it didn’t feel crowded. The food was good and the panoramas were excellent. During naps, we drove the loop through Theodore Roosevelt National Park South Unit. It’s a beautiful drive with views of a variety of landscapes in the badlands. We drove the loop a total of eight times, which gave us the opportunity to see a lot of wild life, mainly buffalo and wild horses. We also visited the park’s visitor center and Teddy’s badlands cabin. Ethan wasn’t sleeping well, but of course, the one night he was sleeping OK, we received a call at 12:30 am from the police department. A bus had backed into our car during the night and did some damage to the spare tire cover. After 30 minutes of talking to the cop and looking at the damage, I was fully awake. It took a while to get back to sleep, and just when I did, the power went out…and on, and out and on. Which turned off our A/C. Apparently, the A/C doesn’t start back up easily, either. It growled and moaned and threatened to wake Ethan and Grace. Needless to say, I didn’t get very much sleep that night.
On the return home, we were to stay in Fargo on the Fourth of July. We arrived in town and took the kids to the Red River Zoo, which is a decent little zoo with a very nice carousel. We then drove to our hotel in downtown Fargo near the Red River. The hotel parking lot was pretty much empty. The gal at the front desk said we would be one of a few staying there that night. She said Fargo empties for the Fourth. And sure enough, we took a walk near the hotel and the area fealt like a ghost town. We quickly decided to cancel our room and drive to the Brainerd area. Luckily, the gal at the front desk understood (is that a good thing?) and didn’t charge us for our room. We then left Fargo as quickly as we could and found a room at the Baxter Holiday Inn Express with a very nice waterpark. We ate a nice dinner at the Black Bear Lodge and Saloon before spending the rest of the night in the waterpark. Grace loved the park so much that the only way we could get her out of there was that it closed at 9pm.
In all, it was a good trip. It would have been better, if Ethan would have held off on his teeth and the car would not have been hit. Yet, it proved that our kids are ready and tolerable on long-distance road trips.
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Yunker Farm in Fargo
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Jess, Grace and Ethan on the train at Yunker Farm
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Jess, Grace and Ethan at the world’s largest buffalo
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Looks windy, and a moment later Grace was blown to the ground
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Grace trying to feed a deer grass at the Dakota Zoo
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Ethan mesmorized by the horse at the Dakota Zoo
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Ethan cackling away while petting a goat at the Dakota Zoo
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Grace in the prairie dog colony at the Dakota Zoo in Bismarck
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Erik and Ethan at the Dickinson Dinosaur Museum
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Jess, Grace and Ethan at the Dickinson Dinosaur Museum
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Theodore Roosevelt’s cabin at the TRNP visitor center
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Chateau de Mores in Medora
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Some ominous skies in Medora
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The “Doll House” in Medora
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Wild horses on the loop through TRNP South Unit
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Badlands with a petrified stump (lower center)
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The heard of buffalo
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Jess, Grace and Ethan on Buck Hill in TRNP
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More wild horses being social
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Prairie dogs in one of three large colonies on the loop
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Pitchfork Fondue in Medora
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Jess and the kids enjoying Pitchfork Fondue
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Our family in Medora
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The Cowboy Cafe – a good place for breakfast in Medora
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The Rough Rider’s Hotel and Saloon
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A heard of buffalo crossing the road in front of us in TRNP
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A large bull buffalo lounging on the side of the road in TRNP
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Prickly pear cactus in Medora
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The governor’s mansion in Bismarck
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A stagecoach ride in Jamestown
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Grace on her much anticipated pony ride
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The Stutsman County Museum in Jamestown
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Grace feeding goats at the Red River Zoo in Fargo
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Our family on the carousel at the Red River Zoo in Fargo
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Erik and Grace at the waterpark in Baxter
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Jess and Ethan at the waterpark